Rockin' Vinyl Record Bowl

love crafts made from recycled records, like this blue-vinyl wall clock and ring-binder journal. It's a great way to re-purpose damaged or dorky vinyl, and the items have a lot retro charm. One of my favorite projects is this Rockin' Vinyl Record Bowl, which is a ridiculously easy DIY endeavor you can complete in less than half an hour. Here's how to make one.

1. Choose a record that you (obviously) don't mind destroying; I found this Kingston Trio vinyl at a thrift store. Choose one with a cool-looking label, since that will be the bottom of your bowl. Then, locate an oven-safe bowl that's about the same size as the bowl you want to make.

2. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees. Turn the bowl upside down on a cookie sheet, and balance the record horizontally on the base of the bowl. When the oven is hot, place the cookie sheet, the bowl, and the record inside and set your timer for 8 to 10 minutes.

3. After 8 to 10 minutes, the vinyl will have conformed to the bowl; just use a potholder to check that the vinyl is soft enough to shape. The vinyl cools quickly, so you'll be able to work with it within seconds, but don't forget that the bowl and cookie sheet are hot!

4. Holding onto the oven-safe bowl with a potholder, peel the record off the bowl and place it inside, so that the sides of the bowl hug the record. Now, you can shape the edges however you'd like; more precise folding will give you finer scalloped edges like on my bowl. If the vinyl gets too cool to mold, just stick it back in the oven for a few minutes.

5. Your record bowl is ready to use! These work well as fruit bowls, catch-all trays, and containers for potted plants, or you can hang yours on the wall as art.

Notebook from old Floppy Disk

I know there are several other Instructables about this using rubber band, cable ties or chain links.
This notebook is made with string and the method is different (and a bit more complicated, I admit).

After I made this I was very very proud of myself, and I wanted the world to see my creation! :-D

Step 1: What you need

-2 Floppy Disks
-1 meter of cotton string
-about 50 papers (square, 9x9cm)
-Scissors
-Darning Needle
-a Hole Punch

I was lucky! I found notebook paper at exactly the right size, and it was cheap too.
If you have to cut it, it would be good to use one of those paper cutter machine things.
I just learned they are called "paper cutters" (THANKS!). Why didn't I think of that? It was probably just too obvious :-)

This is an opportunity to recycle used paper (one side printed/written, one side blank).

FATHER'S DAY PHOTO COFFEE SLEEVE

This Father's Day, help the Dad in your life wear his heart on his sleeve- coffee sleeve, that is! Now when Dad's at work he can warm his hand and his heart every time he takes a sip! Why not suprise Dad with this fun little gift along with a gift card to his favorite coffee shop! Proud mamas- feel free to take advantage of this modern "brag book" opportunity as well!

What you'll need...

About a 16" square piece of corduroy and fusible fleece, a small square of clear plastic (a piece from a heavy duty freezer bag is fine), a 3" strip of velcro, scissors, pen

You'll use a paper cup sleeve as your pattern, so please use this as an excuse to make a trip to the coffee shop!

1. On the WRONG side of the corduroy, trace 1" around all sides of the open coffee sleeve.

2. Cut this piece out and use it as a guide to trace and cut an additional piece like it from the corduroy as well as one from the fusible fleece. The paper coffee sleeve is not symmetrical, so be sure when cutting the second piece from the corduroy that when right sides are facing, the curves match.

3.Following the manufacturer's guidelines, fuse the fleece to the WRONG side of one of the fabric sleeve pieces.

4.Place the right sides of the corduroy pieces together and pin. Using a 3/8" seam, sew around the pieces leaving a 2" space for turning. Trim corners diagonally.

5. Reach into the space and turn the sleeve right-side-out, using the closed tip of your scissors to smoothe out the inner seams. Press the sleeve flat. Topstitch around the sleeve using a 1/8" seam allowance.

6. Wrap the sleeve around the cup to find the placement of the velcro strip. Pin the strips in place and sew onto the sleeve.

7. Prepare the 'frame'. Cut a 3" square of corduroy and a 3" square of fusible fleece. Fuse the fleece onto the wrong side of the corduroy. On the fleece side of the square, mark a 1/2" in on all sides, forming a 2" square in the middle. Carefully cut out this middle square. Using a 1/8" seam allowance, topstitch around the front of the frame.

8. Place the frame onto the center of the sleeve and attatch it by sewing down the sides and the bottom of the frame, using the topstitching as a guide.

9. Make a copy of one of your favorite photos of the kids and cut it to size to fit into the frame. Cut a square of clear plastic the same size to protect the picture from coffeeish fingerprints!

10. Slide the photo into the frame!

Don't you think my babies are adorable? Daddy's not bad either!

You could also put in photos of other things that Daddy loves!

Isn't it great that you can purchase the pattern for this project at the coffee shop? 

Father's Day Key Chain

Alright, it's day two of my great  crazy idea to do Father's Day Week and post a new DIY Father's Day gift idea each day! The good news though....I LOVE how this turned out and can't wait to give it to the hubs!

Here's what you need:
Wooden Tag
Picture
Scrapbook Paper
Mod Podge & Foam Brush
Key Ring
Ink Distress Pad & Sand Paper
 Leather Lace & Thread (Optional)

Step One:
Print your desired text onto your scrapbook paper. I used The Proclamation of the Family and formatted my text to print over my desired paragraph. (This took a few attempts to get it perfect, I'm not gonna lie!)

Step Two:
Trace and cut out the tag shape& hole from your photo and paper

Step Three & Four:
Ink distress and sand the edges of your paper. I choose not to ink distress my picture and only sanded the very edges so I would not scratch the photo. Apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to your paper and then place onto wooden tag.

 Crap...Oh Wait I Like That Moment:
While lightly rubbing the paper to make sure there were no bubbles a bit of the ink from my words rubbed off. I had a momentary freak out then realized I really like how it was "roughing up" the words...so I rubbed a little more! Seal top with a think layer of Mod Podge when dry.
-

Step Five:
Once completely dry flip your wooden tag over and Mod Podge on your picture. Seal as mentioned above and allow to dry. I did a second coat just around the edges of the wooden tag to prevent images from lifting.

Step Six:
Once everything is totally and completely dry attach key ring. You can end here if you'd like but I wanted to add some leather lace.
(I think that is as embellished as the hubs would allow!)

Adding Leather Lace:
I just cut my lace to the size I wanted and used a needle to thread through one side. Tie a knot at the end of your thread, leaving a long tail past the knot and pull through.
Wrap your thread around and around and around! Tie a knot with the thread you're holding and the tail left behind the 1st knot buried under the wrapped thread.
Trim the tails and wipe a little bit of Mod Podge over the knot are to help secure

You're Done and now have a super cute Father's Day Key Chain!

Father's Day iPad Sleeve with Removable Cross-Body Shoulder Strap

Sewing Tools You Need

Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC5100)

Zipper Foot

Janome Clear View Quilting Foot (optional)

Walking Foot (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

½ yard of 44-45" or wider fabric for the the bag exterior; we used Rhino Canvas in Silver from Fabric.com, which is 60" wide

½ yard of 44-45" or wider fabric for the the bag interior; we used Moorish in Ash form the Impressions Collection by Ty Pennington for Free Spirit Fabrics

All purpose thread in colors to match exterior fabric: we used Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP in #450 Nu Grey

2½ yards of 1" natural cotton webbing

Two 1" plastic D-rings

Two 1" plastic swivel hook clips

One magnetic clasp; we used a Dritz 3/4" Round Snap in Nickel

Pressing cloth

See-through ruler

Fabric pencil

Seam gauge

Iron and ironing board

Scissors

Rotary cutter and mat

Straight pins

Getting Started

From the fabric for the bag exterior (Rhino Canvas in Silver in our sample), cut the following: 

ONE 26" wide x 11" high rectangle 

TWO 8" x 8" squares 

One 19" x 2½" strip

From the fabric for the bag interior (Moorish fleece in our sample), cut ONE 23" wide x 11" high rectangle

Cut the webbing into TWO 14" lengths and ONE 53" length.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Exterior pockets and straps

Find your 8" x 8" squares. Hem the top and bottom (it's a square, so unless you are using a directional print, simply hem two opposite sides), using a ¼" double turn hem. To do this, fold under and press ¼", then fold under another ¼" and press again. If using a canvas, use a pressing cloth. 

NOTE: If you selected the Rhino Canvas as we did, you'll find it easy to fold and finger press. I did this first, and then used my iron, on a low heat, and a pressing cloth to set the hems.

Set your machine to a longer stitch length, I used 3.5, and stitch close to the fold on both hems on both pockets. Press.

Fold your main 26" x 11" exterior panel in half (13" x 11") and finger press a middle crease.

Unfold and lay right side up on your work surface so you can clearly see the crease.

We will do the front side of the bag first. Place one of the hemmed pockets so the bottom hemmed edge is 1½" from the middle crease and the left raw edge of the pocket is aligned with the top raw edge of the exterior panel. Lightly pin in place.

Find one of the 14" lengths of cotton webbing. Fold under 1" on end and press. Fold the other end under ½", loop it through one of the D-rings, then fold it back on itself 2". Pin in place to secure the D-ring.
Make sure you fold back both ends to the same side of the webbing. 

Slip the strap over the right side of the pocket so the bottom end wraps under the hem. The raw edge of the pocket should be centered under the strap. Pin in place.

Take the extra time to make sure the strap is straight and parallel with both raw edges of the panel. 

NOTE: You could also use a seam adhesive tape, like a Steam-A-Seam or similar, or even a little fabric glue to hold the strap in place if you struggle with the pins .

Secure the bottom of the pocket by stitching one seam directly on top of the existing hem line. Stitch from the raw edge all the way across the pocket, including across the strap.

Stitch a second seam 1/8" below the first seam. I used my Janome Clear View Quilting Foot, which has really handy and clear markings for narrow seams. 

To secure the strap, reposition the piece under your foot and stitch two vertical seams, each 1/8" from the strap's edge. Finally stitch a reinforcing box with an X to secure the folded back top of the strap. I stitched up one side, got as close as possible to the D-ring, pivoted, stitched across, pivoted again, and stitched down the opposite side. I then went back to complete the bottom of my box and the X. 

Draw two vertical lines for the pocket divisions. You can place these wherever you'd like based on the items you want to carry in your pockets. I wanted at least one pocket to be large enough for an iPhone, one tiny one for a pen, and one for business cards. I made my lines 2" in from the raw edge and 2" in from the inside edge of the strap

Stitch one seam from the bottom hem to the top hem along each drawn line. If possible use a lock stitch rather than back-tacking or leave your thread tails long and tie a hand knot.

Stitch a second parallel seam 1/8" from first, each one towards the inside of the pocket. In other words, to the right of the leftmost seam and to the left of the rightmost seam (how's that description for mind boggling?!). Here's a picture... maybe that will help. We added our Sew4Home label next to the strap. 

Now do all those same steps but on the back and lining up the pocket along the opposite edge so the strap will cross over the body. 

Fleece lining and French seams

Flip over the finished exterior panel so it is facing wrong side up on your work surface.

Center the 23" x 11" fleece panel on top of it, so the fleece is facing right side up (the wrong sides of both fabrics are together). 

Fold the bag in half WRONG sides together and pin along both sides. Be sure all the raw edges are aligned and the front and back are flat and smooth as they lay against one another. 

Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both side seams. You are stitching through four substantial layers that could have a tendency to slip and slide against one another. I used my Janome Walking Foot with its dual feed action to keep everything in line. 

Trim the seam allowance to approximately 1/8". 

Turn the bag inside out, pushing out the corners and rolling your side seams flat.

Again using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along both sides, encasing your first seam in this new seam. 

Turn the bag right side out again, and you now have a finished French seam inside. 

Top facing

Find the 2½" x 19" strip. Bring the two ends right sides together and stitch a short ½" seam.

Fold up one raw edge all the way around ½" and press. 

Slip the facing loop over the top raw edge of the bag so the two pieces are right sides together and the raw edge of the facing is aligned with the top raw edge of the bag. Line up the facing's seam with one of the bag's side seam. Pin in place. 

Stitch the facing to the bag, using a ½" seam allowance. If you have a free arm on your machine, now is the time to use it. 

Open the facing and insert the magnetic clasp, following the manufacturer's directions (it's really easy... you just poke the prongs through the fabric, slide the locking disk in place and bend the prongs over it). Center the clasp side to side and top to bottom between the facing's seam and hem. Make sure you insert the clasp from front to back. 

Insert one side of the clasp, then attach the other half to best mark its position on the opposite side. Poke the prongs through the fabric. If they won't poke through, just poke them against the fabric, then make tiny snips with your scissors where you see the prongs trying to come through to help things along. Slide your fingernail or the end of a seam ripper in between the magnets to release the bond, and secure the opposite clasp in place. 

Fold the facing back into place against the inside of the bag. Your clasps should be facing out. 

Whip stitch the facing in place. 

Using a zipper foot in order to stay close to the top seam and avoid the clasps, top stitch all around approximately ¼" from the top seam. You'll have to futz with the exact distance in order to be able to sew past the clasps. 

Shoulder strap

Find your remaining 53" length of webbing. This length gives you a 4' finished strap, which was a good length for our 6' 3" model. Adjust the length accordingly to fit someone shorter or taller.

Fold each end under ½", loop each end through one of the swivel hooks, then fold it back on itself 2". Pin in place to secure. Make sure you fold back both ends to the same side of the webbing. 

Using the Zipper foot again, which will allow you to both stitch close to the edge of the webbing and get as close as possible to the swivel hook, stitch along both sides of the entire strap and make a box with a X at each end to secure the fold-back. Similar to what you did with the straps you stitched directly to the bag. 

Clip the strap to the bag. 

The bag can also be used without the strap